With so many different ingredients available in our skincare products, it’s a challenge to keep every ingredient's name and effect straight in your head. That’s why we’re here to help with Ingredient Spotlight. This time, our focus is on Polyglutamic Acid, an unsung hero of the skincare world.
Polyglutamic Acid, also known as Poly-L-Glutamic Acid, is an amino acid chain primarily composed of either L-glutamic Acid or D-glutamic Acid. The compound comes in two forms: alpha-PGA and gamma-PGA, both of which have unique chemical properties. We’ll be looking at gamma-PGA. Since Polyglutamic Acid is an amino acid chain, it can be classified as a type of peptide.
Gamma Polyglutamic Acid comes from fermented soybeans. Better known as natto, the bacteria used in fermenting soybeans produce the compound naturally. Then, chemists isolate the compound and purify it for commercial use.
Polyglutamic Acid vs. Hyaluronic Acid
Just like Hyaluronic Acid, Polyglutamic Acid is a type of peptide. However, our body does not naturally produce Polyglutamic Acid and must obtain it through plant matter. Both chains are excellent skin moisturizing agents and do so by drawing moisture into the skin. Also known as humectants, these compounds work best together, not separately.
Since it’s primarily used to attract moisture, Polyglutamic Acid is most often used in skincare. However, it does have some uses among other parts of our bodies in medicine. Polyglutamic Acid is edible, although it’s a bit thick and slimy, so some doctors use it to deliver medications like pills to patients with difficulty swallowing. Since the compound is biodegradable, Polyglutamic Acid is often used in food and wastewater treatment to absorb and remove inorganic substances as well.
Polyglutamic Acid in Skincare
As a humectant, Polyglutamic Acid is first and foremost used as a moisturizer. The added hydration can help your skin in several ways:
Moisturizing Agent
Humectants attract moisture from the second layer of skin (the dermis) up to the epidermis. This, in turn, allows moisture to gather underneath the outermost layer of dead skin cells, reducing cracks and dryness on the surface.
By reducing surface cracks and dryness, you’re less likely to experience deeper cuts caused by dry skin. In addition, Polyglutamic Acid is often considered better than Hyaluronic Acid because it promotes the production of Lactic Acid, Carbolic Acid, and other amino acids meant to lock in moisture.
Reducing Wrinkles
Extra hydration also comes with fuller, brighter-looking skin, thus reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Just like Hyaluronic Acid, Polyglutamic Acid also encourages the body’s natural production of collagen and elastin– two proteins that improve skin elasticity and cell growth.
Anti-Aging Properties
As we age, our bodies produce less collagen, which is often attributed to aging. Since Polyglutamic Acid promotes collagen production, it can reduce signs of aging like washed-out skin tones, wrinkles, fine lines, and scarring from acne or age spot discoloration. The extra hydration will also help keep your skin from sagging or developing cracks.
Wound Recovery
Polyglutamic Acid promotes wound healing in two ways: first, its ability to attract and lock in moisture helps keep recovering cuts from drying out and reopening. Second, its ability to promote collagen production further encourages cells to heal. In fact, scientists are looking into using the compound in biological wound dressings to help accelerate the natural healing process.
You’re most likely to find Polyglutamic Acid in moisturizing products, like lotions, creams, and serums. Unlike other active ingredients, this one’s pretty straightforward when it comes to finding it on a label: look for any mentions of Polyglutamic Acid, gamma (or γ) Polyglutamic Acid, or Poly-L- Glutamic Acid.
At Hale Cosmeceuticals, we have included it in our PGA-product line, which is our Vitamin Eye Cream, Complete Dermal Repair, and PHA Toner